RSSby Jessie Birks
The following is a step-by-step instruction set for successfully fixing a flat bicycle tire. Read on, and learn about all the tools, supplies and know-how you’ll need to get your ride pumped up and rollin’ along.
Being Ready For Anything…
If you’re riding further than you’d like to walk home, then you should carry these items with you on your bike. Clever riders can find ways to secure all the needed tools and parts to their bike, so that they never have to remember anything when they’re headed out on a ride.
Needed Tools
Pump
Tire Levers
Patch Kit (Sandpaper, Glue, Patches)
Spare Tube
Wrench (For Solid Axle Bikes)
20 Simple Steps To Patching a Tire…
1. Undo the brake
In order to get the wheel out, you need to undo the brake. This works differently on every style of brake, most have a cable release to enable the pads to spread out.
2. Remove the wheel
Next, remove the wheel from the bike. This will require either undoing the quick release or loosening an axle nut with a wrench.
If your bike has solid axles with a threaded nut, you’ll want to carry the correct wrench (usually 14 or 15mm) in case of a flat.
3. Watch that chain!
For rear wheels, many people make the mistake of putting their hands on the greasy chain. By pulling the derailleur back, you can get the chain out of the way without touching it.
4. Find the puncture
Many times, the source of your puncture will be visible in the tire treads. Slowly rotate the tire looking for shards of glass, metal or other pointy objects that could have caused your problem.
Once located, note the position of the offending object, it will help you find it later for patching. (In our extreme example here, note the proximity to the valve. This made it easy to find the hole later.)
5. Unseat the tire from the rim
Using a tire lever, remove one side of the tire from the rim. It’s easy, just stick the lever in between the rim and the bead and pry it up.
If you’re having trouble, just give the whole bead a squeeze to get a little more slack. By the way, it’s best to start removal well away from the valve… otherwise you could mess the valve up.
Once you’ve got it started, run the lever all the way around to get that one side completely off the rim.
6. Remove tire from the wheel
Now that one side of the tire is off, the other side will be a breeze. Remove the tire, making sure to lift the rim straight off the valve.
7. Pull the tube out of the tire
Gently remove the tube from the inside of the tire. If it’s been in there a long time, it may not want to come out too easily. Be gentle with the tube, you don’t want to cause any additional damage.
8. Locate the hole
Find the hole again. This might require pumping some air into the tube. Sometimes it helps to listen to the tube, use a sesitive body part like your nose, hold it under water or use other curious methods to find the leak.
9. Pick a patch
Once the hole is found, with the tube fully deflated, select the smallest patch that will effectively cover the hole. You’ll want to save bigger patches for times when you get a big gash in the tube.
10. Clean the area
Rub the tube lightly with sandpaper to clean the area around the hole. Make sure there’s no rubber, dust or dirt hanging around. Any extra material could influence adhesion.
11. Apply the glue
Apply a light circle of glue, slightly larger than the selected patch. No need to go crazy, a thin layer will work just fine. Using the tip of the glue tube is a good way to spread it around, don’t use your finger or a stick or anything.
12. Allow to dry
Give the glue 3-5 minutes to dry. When ready, the glue will look glazed (like a donut) not wet.
13. Find the culprit
While the glue sets up, grab the tire and carefully feel around the inside for the source of the puncture. If you can find any foreign objects in the tire, remove them.
14. Peel patch from backing
Using the clear plastic sheet, remove the patch from the aluminum backing. Take special care not to touch the surface of the patch, the oils in your hands may stop the patch from sticking.
15. Position the patch
Stick the patch to the glazed glue, making sure to center it on the puncture.
Apply pressure with your fingertips and insure there are no air bubbles. If you didn’t allow the glue to properly glaze, the patch won’t stick.
16. Peel back the plastic
After a minute, it should be safe to pull the plastic off and smooth out the patch.
17. Check the rotation
Before you remount the tire, make sure you’re putting it on the right way. Most tires have a marking telling you the correct rotational direction.
18. Remount the tire
Put the tube back into the tire, sometimes this is easier if there’s a little air in the tube. Then mount the tire and tube back on the rim, beginning with the valve.
One side should go on by hand, the second side may require a lever to finish the job. Be aware that rigid tools can cause additional punctures. If you’re having trouble getting that last bit to go on, make some slack by squeezing in the bead on the opposite end of the wheel.
19. Insert and inflate
Once the bead is seated on both sides, you can inflate the tire and insert the wheel back into the bike. Tire pressure needs vary, check the side of your tire for correct inflation. Generally, the more firm the tire, the more efficient the ride.
20. Finish installation
Be sure your quick release or nuts are firmly secured, then reconnect the brake. Give the wheel a spin to insure the tire isn’t rubbing.
Now, get out there and ride…
…an intense lecture on the particulars of tire patching? Well, it was needed. Though this manual is 20 steps long, it makes sure you don’t miss any of the important details.
One note, if you carrying a spare tube with you, you can save steps 8 thru 16 until you get home. It’s a great strategy if you don’t have much time for the repair.
